As may be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has received many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But while some of his efforts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the latest element of the Biebvolution is actually bang in the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been a great deal of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is certainly sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is at. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge having a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you would never think of it is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore for the teen awards, is integral for the surge in rise in popularity of denim and also jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to place proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that had been roughly stop at the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; in close proximity, the holes during these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers popular, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. In a short video to accompany this shoot, you may also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for your latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been throughout one of the more talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was held in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a activate the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is just set to keep: following the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label is maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
Actually, if all else fails, the key to this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for women (see British Vogue’s December issue, where several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all somewhat Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, because it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all the justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear over the past several years. And then finally, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an attempt but suggests that you know what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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